Dog House DIY Plans: Full Cut List and Step-by-Step Build
This is a full, beginner-friendly plan for a classic gable-roof dog house for a medium dog (about 25 to 60 lb): a 2×4 floor frame raised off the ground, plywood or T1-11 siding walls, a shingled roof with overhangs, and an off-center door. It uses standard lumber sizes, takes a weekend, and costs roughly $180 to $320 in new materials. Below are sizing rules, the full cut list, step-by-step assembly and how to adjust the plan for small or large dogs.
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Short on time? Buy a ready-made dog house instead:
- Insulated dog house – built for cold and wet weather
- Large wooden dog house – classic look, assembles in an afternoon
- Outdoor heated pet pad – adds warmth in winter
- Dog house door flap – keeps wind and rain out
What you’ll need to build it:
Exterior wood screws, Cordless drill, Cedar bedding, Exterior wood sealant.
Quick Answer
- Finished size: floor 36″ × 28″, walls 30″ tall at the sides, 41″ tall at the peak.
- Fits: most dogs about 25 to 60 lb. Scale it using the size table below.
- Materials: two 2x4s, two 2x2s, two sheets of T1-11 siding (or 1/2″ exterior plywood), one sheet of 1/2″ plywood for the roof, a scrap of 3/4″ plywood for the floor, shingles and screws.
- Must-haves: raised floor, roof overhang, a real roof covering, and a door set to one side so your dog has a corner out of the wind.
- Time: one weekend, plus paint drying time.
Size the House for Your Dog
- Inside length and width: about 1.25 times your dog’s length from nose to base of tail.
- Inside height at the eaves: at least your dog’s height to the top of the head when standing.
- Door: about 3/4 of shoulder height, a little wider than the chest.
| Dog size | Floor (outer) | Side wall height | Door (W × H) |
|---|---|---|---|
| Small (under 25 lb) | 28″ × 22″ | 24″ | 10″ × 14″ |
| Medium (25 to 60 lb), this plan | 36″ × 28″ | 30″ | 14″ × 18″ |
| Large (60 to 90 lb) | 44″ × 34″ | 36″ | 16″ × 22″ |
Too big a house won’t hold body heat in winter, so don’t oversize it “to be safe.”
Materials
- 2 pressure-treated 2x4s, 8 ft (floor frame only)
- 2 pine 2x2s, 8 ft (corner and roof cleats)
- 2 sheets of 5/8″ T1-11 siding or 1/2″ exterior plywood, 4 × 8 ft (walls)
- 1 sheet of 1/2″ exterior plywood, 4 × 8 ft (roof)
- A 36″ × 28″ piece of 3/4″ exterior plywood (floor)
- Roofing felt, 1 bundle of asphalt shingles, 2 pieces of drip edge, 3/4″ roofing nails
- 2 1/2″ and 1 1/4″ exterior screws, exterior wood glue
- Exterior caulk, primer and exterior paint
- 4 concrete pavers to set it on
Tools
- Circular saw, jigsaw, drill and driver
- Tape measure, speed square, level, chalk line or straightedge
- Hammer or stapler for felt and shingles, utility knife
- Sander, safety glasses
Cut List (Medium Dog)
| Part | Qty | Size | Material |
|---|---|---|---|
| Floor frame, long sides | 2 | 36″ | 2×4 |
| Floor frame, cross pieces | 3 | 25″ | 2×4 |
| Floor | 1 | 36″ × 28″ | 3/4″ plywood |
| Side walls | 2 | 36″ × 30″ | T1-11 or plywood |
| Front and back gable walls | 2 | 29 1/4″ wide, 30″ at edges, 41″ at center peak | T1-11 or plywood |
| Corner cleats | 4 | 25 3/4″ | 2×2 |
| Gable roof cleats | 4 | About 18″ (cut to fit) | 2×2 |
| Roof panels | 2 | 22″ × 42″ | 1/2″ plywood |
Cutting the gables: on each 29 1/4″ wide panel, mark the center top at 41″. Mark both side edges at 30″. Draw straight lines from each side mark to the center mark and cut along them. That gives a roof pitch of about 37 degrees.
Step 1: Build the Floor
- Screw the three 25″ cross pieces between the two 36″ sides (one at each end, one in the middle) with two 2 1/2″ screws per joint. The frame measures 36″ × 28″.
- Check it’s square by measuring the diagonals.
- Glue and screw the 3/4″ plywood floor on top with 1 1/4″ screws every 6 inches.
- Set the floor on four level concrete pavers. The plywood sits about 4 inches above the pavers.
Step 2: Cut the Door
- On one gable wall, mark a 14″ × 18″ door with the bottom edge about 8 1/4″ up from the bottom of the panel. That leaves a 4 inch lip above the floor to hold bedding in.
- Place it off-center, a few inches in from one side.
- Round the top for an arch if you like, then cut it out with a jigsaw.
- Sand the cut edges smooth.
Step 3: Attach the Walls
- Screw a 2×2 corner cleat upright at each inside corner of the floor, standing on the plywood.
- Attach the side walls to the outside of the floor frame, bottom edges flush with the bottom of the frame, using 1 1/4″ screws every 6 inches into the frame and cleats.
- Attach the front and back gable walls the same way. They overlap the ends of the side walls.
- Check that the corners are plumb and the tops of the side walls are level.
Step 4: Add the Roof
- Screw 2×2 cleats along the inside of each sloped gable edge, set down by the thickness of the roof plywood. These give the roof something to screw into.
- Set one roof panel in place so it overhangs the front and back by 3 inches and the side wall by about 3 inches. Screw it to the gable cleats and the side wall top.
- Install the second panel the same way so the two meet at the peak.
- Add drip edge along the lower edges, staple roofing felt over the plywood, then nail shingles from the bottom up with 3/4″ roofing nails so they don’t poke through inside.
- Cap the peak with shingles cut into ridge pieces.
Step 5: Ventilate, Seal and Paint
- Drill two or three 1 inch holes high on the back gable, just under the roof, for ventilation.
- Caulk all outside seams.
- Prime and paint the outside with exterior paint. Let it cure and air out for 48 to 72 hours before your dog uses it.
- Leave the inside bare or use the same exterior paint.
Step 6: Make It Comfortable
- Cold weather: straw bedding (not hay), a heavy vinyl door flap, and rigid foam insulation covered with plywood so it can’t be chewed. See our DIY insulated dog house.
- Hot weather: full shade, door flap off, vents open. A dog house is shelter, not cooling. Make sure your dog has shade, water and a way indoors.
- Placement: face the door away from the prevailing wind, on level, well-drained ground.
- Never use heat lamps or space heaters in a dog house.
Cost
| Item | Approximate cost |
|---|---|
| 2x4s and 2x2s | $15 to $30 |
| Siding, 2 sheets | $80 to $140 |
| Roof and floor plywood | $40 to $70 |
| Shingles, felt, drip edge, nails | $30 to $50 |
| Screws, glue, caulk, paint, pavers | $20 to $40 |
| Total | About $180 to $320 |
Lumber prices vary by region. For a cheaper build from reclaimed wood, see our pallet dog house plan.
Maintenance
- Clean out bedding and sweep monthly.
- Check for loose screws, raised nails and splinters.
- Inspect the roof each season and repaint the outside every couple of years.
Frequently Asked Questions
What size dog house do I need?
Make the inside about 1.25 times your dog’s length from nose to base of tail, and tall enough at the eaves for your dog to stand. Too large a house stays cold in winter.
What is the best wood for a dog house?
Exterior-grade plywood or T1-11 siding for the walls, exterior plywood for the roof and floor, and pressure-treated lumber only for the floor frame that sits near the ground.
Should a dog house be raised off the ground?
Yes. A few inches of clearance keeps the floor dry, stops water from pooling inside and adds insulation from cold ground.
Which way should the door face?
Away from the prevailing wind. Placing the door off-center also gives your dog a protected corner to lie in.
Can I build this without power tools?
Yes, with a hand saw, a keyhole saw for the door and a screwdriver, but a circular saw, jigsaw and drill make it much faster and more accurate.
The Short Version
- 36″ × 28″ floor on a 2×4 frame, raised on pavers.
- 30″ side walls and gable ends peaking at 41″, with an off-center 14″ × 18″ door.
- Plywood roof with felt, shingles and a 3 inch overhang.
- Vent high, caulk, paint, and let it air out before use.
